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Gavin Condon

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  1. The double IPA recipe above turned out great. Dangerous after a couple though ? Hops were beautiful, my only gripe was it was the base was a little too dark and malty for a west coast style double IPA. So I am going to wind back the E2s and substitute in some E5s 5x E1 3x E5 I'll dry hop the same. I also made a batch of a West Coast IPA, but dry hopped it similar to above (but just a single dry hop) and it was one of my favourites yet. Good session IPA.
  2. Thanks everyone for the tips, I gave it a try and it didn’t taste too bad actually. so I’ve kegged half and bottled half, and will wait at least 6 weeks
  3. A photo of the fermenter, this is the first time I used star San to sterilise as I forgot to order droid tablets. I have only brewed ales and laggers, so im not sure if this is normal smell for ruby porter or infected
  4. Just finished brewing my first ruby porter, and I had the usual volcano (bubbles leaking out) that smelled delicious. but as it settled down and completed it has a slight sour smell a little bit sulphur like. Very cloudy and some white sedement. does this look normal?
  5. I am looking to do a double IPA as well. One of my favourites is Pliny the Elder and there are a lot of full grain clones available: http://beersmithrecipes.com/searchrecipe?term=pliny&submit.x=0&submit.y=0 http://www.bertusbrewery.com/2015/10/pliny-elder-40.html Would a beer this style even be possible using our malt extract and enhancers? Hop wise I am thinking dry hoping should be fairly simple by taking one of the recipes and dividing it down to 10l. From what I remember of Pliny the Elder is it is much lighter in colour then IPAs here but with a ton of bitterness, more similar to the West Coast Pale Ale then Mountain IPA from the BrewPrints. Also I did like the Mountain IPA, but on occasion found the hops to have a slightly metallic taste. So I was thinking of starting with the West Coast Pale ale 3x E1 1x E2 1x E5 and bringing in more malt and extract: 2 x E1 1 x E2 So total recipe: 5x E1 2x E2 1x E5 In terms of hopping I made this calculations: Dry Hop 1 Simcoe 12.48g Cascade 10.40g CTZ 6.24g Dry Hop 2 Simcoe 12.48g Cascade 9.36g Amarillo 4.49g CTZ 4.49g This will be my first custom and dry hopped brew, but I have done heaps of prints. What do you guys think?
  6. I'm brewing my first larger and looking for tips to perfect it. I have tried using the store function on my droid to cold crash for a week prior to kegging or bottling. The last ale I did (lighthouse), it looked like a lot of the brew had frozen around the outside, is this normal? When cold crashing is it best to add the hop solution prior to crashing or after? any other tips for producing the perfect larger?
  7. I think its great to have this community to share tips, tricks, ideas and results. But there are way too many forums to keep track of all the information. Would it be possible to collapse the forums in to something like Beer Droid Brewing BrewFlow BrewArt and Food Then use the tags to categorise the next level. This would make it easier for visitors to click on only a couple forums to see whats new, rather then 16 seperate forums. At least while its in its infancy.
  8. You can put the hops in the fermenter and wait 24 hours for it to mix.
  9. Hey Duffman, no keg caddy, just use it on a shelf below the unit. Thanks I'll leave the kegs a couple extra weeks and see if they improve. Craig, even with a completely full keg I have found the same, it's because there is 10l of water + ingredients, so it's normal to have more then the 10l total.
  10. The first couple kegs I did, they filled perfectly, but the next few have stopped filling because of an air pocket between the top of the keg and the neck. I have made sure the netting is on the inner bladder when filling, but that slips off way before it gets to this point. Also my first brew the APA was pretty under carbed, first keg was fresh at 2 weeks, second keg was in the kegs for about 3.5 weeks with one of those weeks in the fridge.
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