Jump to content

Dean Buchanan

BrewArtist
  • Content Count

    53
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

41 Good

Personal Information

  • Favourite BrewPrint
    Mountain Range IPA
  • BrewPrints I've Brewed
    American Pale Ale
    Belgian Strong Ale
    Birra Italiano
    Coopers Pale Ale
    Czech Pils
    German Weissbier
    Highlands IPA
    Lighthouse Pacific Pale
    Mountain Range IPA
    US Chiller Lager
  • How Many Brews I've Completed
    0 - 20 Brews

Recent Profile Visitors

812 profile views
  1. If you are doing a extract brew then you can use a hydrometer, take a OG reading at start after mixing all ingredients & before adding yeast & then a FG reading after EOF then do the calculations to get your ABV %
  2. I’m not 100% sure but I can’t see why you can’t do exactly what you do with a print, fill the droid with water, pour mix in, but I’d mix it up unlike what we do with a print where we leave ingredients to mix itself , then add yeast , set to Ale setting & away you go , see how it goes
  3. I responded on the other thread you posted this in , call Liam as BrewArt for guidance but you will still need primer when the brew is ready to keg/bottle & id now dry hop the brew at EOF or if you have some spare BrewArt hop packets I’d do it again at EOF as normal
  4. I’d be guessing but I’d say by adding the primer before EOF will just add some extra ABV to the brew as it’s sugar, you will still need to use primer at the EOF , as for the hops, I’d pop down to the local home brew shop & get some hops to add as a dry hop at EOF for a couple days as I don’t think you will get much aroma adding them at the start , be best to contact BrewArt for their opinion
  5. Exactly what do you mean by a “dry mix”
  6. I’m on iPhone & it stays logged in , is there a little check box that says “stay logged in” when you enter your details ?
  7. If you have a brew going when it happens you can try wrapping plumbers tape around it & hopefully the fermentables will seal the crack to get you through to EOF
  8. I’ve only ever had one bung go on me , every other time it’s been the hairline crack in the spigot , it’s easy to mistake for a tap or bung issue but always check the spigot first, it’s the main reason droids are replaced
  9. That’s not unusual, I’ve had that happen on kegs , you might of got a bit more in the first keg you filled & a bit less in the second. I’ve never had a keg that wasn’t carbed, only ever had issues with being too heady when pouring, hopefully the new liners will fix that. Only real way to check is connect to the Flo & find out. Are you 100% sure you put the primer in both kegs ?
  10. BrewArt suggest that print takes 6-14 days so I’d recommend leaving it for at least 14 days if the droid is not detecting the start or end of fermentation, at the very least I’d wait until you can contact BrewArt & they can log in to the droid & see what the issue is.
  11. Let it go a few more days at least
  12. The new parts for the kegs can be acquired from BrewArt, you will need to email or call them & let them know how many kegs you have then they will send them out free of charge. No one has them yet, they are expected to ship this month.
  13. Check your local Home Brew Shop as they might stock some FWK from All Inn or other breweries , I’m in Vic & my local stocks a lot of the All Inn kits so will save you postage as they cost almost double when you include shipping
  14. I’ve done Fresh Wort Kits from All Inn Brewing Co, you shouldn’t need to add anything but yeast to the Wort, usually the label will recommend a yeast to use like US-05 for Ales or S-04 for Lager which you can get from a local home brew store.
  15. I’m at about a 60% success rate & it’s improving with each keg since being more careful with how I handle the liner when screwing into the collar , I also have a iKegger system mainly because I wanted something portable as well
×
×
  • Create New...