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Everything posted by Gibbo

  1. Thats what I said ? Way ahead of you. My replacement is due in a couple days, but dont throw things out. Brewart tend to want broken things back. Just sharing my Brewart experience for all to enjoy
  2. This is my problem. The liners dont screw into this one properly. At first I thought it was my mistake, but this one has failed me twice. The arrow shows where the leaking occurs and the end result if you leave it for 8 weeks.
  3. Something with liners and removing them. I have found if I unscrew the orange connector first, then the last dribbles and dregs are expelled. Once that finishes, I unscrew the black connector to drop the internal pressure. Then I can unscrew the collar and the bag pulls out reasonably easily. If I undo the black connector first, the bags have a tendency to self inflate and then they are a real pain to remove.
  4. Ok the results are in.... The brew was a success and after a glass, I can certainly notice the increase in ABV over the original recipe. It tastes like a lager with low bitterness and floral notes, as opposed to fruity. I have brewed better tasting beers. It may appeal to someone else's pallet, particularly those who prefer lagers over ales, though I have no preference for one or the other. For my taste I think this particular lager yeast did not marry very well with the hops. The original ale yeast was a far better pairing. This may improve with age and I will revisit this page if my assessment changes.
  5. So 57 days total after kegging and pulling it out of the cupboard for another waltz, the results are agreeable. Getting about half an inch too much head for my liking, but that is a minor concern. Effervescence is not over the top and the flavour is quite pronounced. Probably due to using a whole can for a 10L batch. ABV is anyone's guess but this sure aint mid-strength ?
  6. Hi David, Truthfully I have not tried this one yet, but I will pop a bottle in the fridge and give it a crack soon. I used two H6 pouches, I was just too lazy in my original post.
  7. I have a similar problem with one my kegs. I believe there is a manufacturing defect, preventing the liner screwing properly into the connector. I thought I didnt screw it on tight enough the first time and the problem was so bad that the air from the flow compressor was pushed inside the liner and caused sputtering and horrible pours about half way through the keg. This time I doubly checked it was screwed down properly and I have the same symptoms as pictured above. Still to test the 'finished' product and understand how bad the issue is.
  8. Cerveza out of a can produced 50/50 results. That is to say half a glass of head and half beer. Strong banana notes and quite enjoyable. Certainly better result than the Bavarian, however still not good enough. Out of the flow and back into the cupboard.
  9. Just tried my Bavarian at 4.5 weeks - All head. Have taken it out of the flow and back into the cupboard for a while longer. Cerveza out of a can will be tried next weekend.
  10. Just kegged and bottled an experiment. I really liked the Lighthouse Pacific Pale Ale, even though it was a low on ABV for my taste. So I had a situation where I was going on holidays for a couple weeks and wanted a brew to run while I was away. Since lagers have taken me around 12 days to complete, I hatched a cunning plan. So I did the following: 2x E5 2x X2 500g Dextrose - to boost ABV Y9 H6 Ferment at 11 degrees (instead of 12) The dextrose was what you can buy in the bag from Big W. I just dumped it in on top with the other ingredients. All seems to have turned out well. 15 days for fermentation and I cold crashed for a few days.
  11. It all comes down to the yeast you use. Ale yeast ferments at a higher temperature than lager yeast. When you buy non-brewart yeast, the packaging usually contains extra information like active temperature ranges. This is how you know what temperature to use. High level brewers will deliberately brew at the lowest temps possible in an effort to improve their finished products and yeast selection plays a very significant role in this sort of thing. The last thing you want is to brew too low and stop fermentation from occurring. The droid is designed to suit brewers who just want to brew from a brewprint, as well as brewers who want to push the envelope and strive to achieve a finer quality beer.
  12. That's probably your bank/credit institution playing up. Have a read of these two threads and get down to Big W or your local brew shop or supermarket. In the time it takes to have your order delivered by Aussie Post (when you finally get to order it), you will have been able to knock out a decent brew.
  13. My Bavarian test bottle (after just over 3 weeks) has poured well. I toyed with the idea of trying the keg, but will leave that for atleast another week. Beer was slightly too effervescent, however the taste reminded me of Becks. In two weeks I will test out the can-in-a-keg and the Bavarian and report back. Of most interest here is the possibility of the keg liners being at fault. Pete, Do you know exactly what purpose the gauze has in the operation of the keg? Do you think popping a few larger holes through it would improve beer flow?
  14. Just did half keg, half bottle for a bavarian lager. The keg filled really well, but I did notice the finished brew was a little gassy. I think this is due to coming up from 12 degrees to 18 degrees. We will see how it pours in a few more weeks. I am also going to half keg and half bottle a can of mexican cerveza tomorrow. This will be a good test to see if non-brewprints can hold up to a kegging. This one brewed at 20 degrees, so I am anticipating that the lager wont be gassy like the bavarian. I have had gassy brews before and they have certainly finished fermenting though it always made it a pain to read the hydrometer. Out of bottles these brews will pour just fine. I am toying with the idea of kegging at lower temperatures too. This will be my next test for the next brew.
  15. Pursya, I hear your frustration mate. If you want your money back or you want to solve an issue you have, you have to contact them. Have you tried emailing?
  16. Pursya, Talk to the Brewart Techs. They may be able to help you out. Like you, I have followed all the instructions and I am certainly not new to brewing. I have a new set of kegs and I am back to square one of my assessment phase. So far, I have seen better results.
  17. Your local brew supplies shop has plenty of yeasts available. I also make it a point to order extra yeasts when I purchase my brewprint ingredients.
  18. Ian-B, you will always get some wastage. The cans are designed for 23L and Beerdroids are 10L which means there is plenty of room for losses. I put a little heat into the can with a water bath, but not so much that I cant hold it with bare hands. The first half can be poured off into a suitable vessel and refrigerated until it is needed. I have a vessel that seems to be half a can when full. This makes measuring easy. I tip the second half into a stainless steel bowl and add hot water and sugar there. At this stage if there is too much extract left in the can and my spoon cant scrape it out properly, I tip a little hot water in it to loosen up the extract. Just swirl it around and hold the can in a cloth cos it can get hot quickly. After the satisfactory results with my Dark Ale, I may not continue splitting the can contents. One can is still far cheaper than a Brewprint and I do enjoy a brew that has a kick to it. I will continue experimenting with volumes between half and a whole can, to see what provides a better result. The one drawback on a can of extract is that the hops and bitterness levels are already established. Unless there is a recipe that really hits the mark for you, the Brewprints offer a far superior option in fine tuning the different flavour profiles. HA! Just read what I wrote...probably more of an answer than you were looking for
  19. I too was pretty sure the Brewflo was all gimmick and zero performance. I have had 4 kegs and associated hardware replaced by the Brewart team. I have only had the opportunity to do one kegging trial since and the result was really good. My second keg crapped out, but that was due to the liner somehow not screwing in tight enough. So I got about a litre and a half of beer before the air from the Brewflo pushed its way into the keg and it was a spit fest from there on in. It would also seem that the caddy is a must have, not an optional piece of kit. So for me the jury is also still out, but I am feeling alot more optimistic. In another couple months, I will have more kegs to test and will report back with the results.
  20. Ian-B, Do you think the hop profile of the H1 matches Amarillo? Other brewers have mention that they find the hop pouches a little too subtle, but I am hoping you can pick if they are similar or completely different.
  21. Yes Brendan, I use cans and bags and in about a month or so...bottles. For the Euro Lager, I have halved the tin and used 500g of dextrose for one and Brew enhancer 2 for the other. This has produced an agreeable result. For the Dark Ale, I have used approx 3/4 of a tin and 500g of dextrose. The result was far better than I expected and the abv is quite high, yet has not tainted the flavour profile. I have put a couple Mangrove Jacks "fruity" cider kits through. I halved them both and used 500g of dextrose each time. These are good too. I think of them as the closest thing you will get to an alcopop from homebrew. A real hit with the ladies. In a few days, my Bavarian Brewprint will have brewed and I intend to use a full tin of Mexican Cerveza and maybe 250g dextrose. In about a month or so I will make a hard cider from simple store bought apple juice. Here is a link to an earlier thread, with a few more details.
  22. Deeks has put some work in and figured out H4 should be Saaz. Saaz is usually between 3% and 5%. Alpha acid is one measure, but also there is a need to pay attention the esters too. I havent had time to look deeper into the Brewprint hops and their possible substitutions and it may be that Banjo is as near as it gets.
  23. The hops will be the hardest to match up as the original recipe uses hops with an alpha acid of around 12%. The H4 is alot lower. Here is a link I posted on the 'Additional Hops' thread, that may (or may not) help pin down something closer. http://www.aussiebrewmakers.com.au/libraries/resources/pdfs/4.1 Hop Substitution Chart.pdf Regardless, I find your proposal to be very exciting and applaud the creativity. Cant wait for a review on the finished result.
  24. It could be you had your power outage when it was first trying to detect fermentation or it could be that you have a faulty droid. 7 days is typically enough time for a Pale Ale to ferment. You could bottle it and perhaps try another brew and see how you go.
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