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Everything posted by Barrelboy

  1. Thanks Rob, ordered top up but agree for $200 pay out should be just the norm and specials be given on 100 bucks.
  2. If you did both, about 7.5%. Few of those before bed. 😴Note: as you don’t have the droid yet nothing stops you from buying a Brewprint print or ingredients and fermenting the traditional way.
  3. A big expense, a fairly lengthy extra process, messy and apparently the best a home brewer will get cans for is about 50 cents Aust. (35 cents US approx).
  4. Will do, in the fermenter for 5 days now. As I’m going to use the liquid hops (H6) will add to the keg. Probably y weeks before it’s turn in the consumption fridge.😋
  5. Galaxy Australian Pale Ale in the Droid 25/9/19. 1/2 tin Coopers Aust. Pale Ale 250g light dry malt extract. Coopers kit yeast (had spare) 30g of galaxy hop pellets to be added at day 5
  6. Keg this today after 8 days fermentation. Have now used the other half of the Aust Pale Ale tin for a Galaxy APA.
  7. Not really up on this but does this calculator help? https://www.brewersfriend.com/ibu-calculator/
  8. Before I bought my first droid I study up on them (not a great amount of info Bach then) however downloaded the full manual so when the unit arrived it was away we go with a fair amount of confidence. So what your doing is a good idea. For hop teas I got a cheap 1 litre coffee plunger. Before use, sanitise it and a spoon. Add pellets, fill just boiled water, stir and let steep for 20, 30 mins or whatever suits. Plunger down and pour into wort. Just so easy. I dry hop with pellets in a hop bag usually 2hen fermentation has finished or about to. The brewart brewprint recipes tell you the bitterness and colour expected if that helps with mixed brew methods.
  9. Have sent an email asking if we can have a general brewing thread etc. Will advise outcome. cheers.
  10. Glad both done. As you say, keg/bottle and let them mature for a while.
  11. I’m not into the way out styles, like sours, vanilla, marshmallow ect. However perhaps your friend would like to try this one.
  12. Thanks for the compliments. 1) just be aware that leaving it for only 24hours will mean your beer will be fairly “green” and will not have matured for its best outcome in terms of developing flavours ect. Often people wait 4, 6 plus weeks before consuming. However you need to build some stock to effectively achieve this. Having said that, I understand and appreciate the eagerness with this new brew and I would do the same so yes go ahead as you have proposed. One thing I should have mentioned is before connecting the gas at serving pressure, pressure release the keg as the pressure in there may be higher than the serving pressure due to the force carbonation. Cheers and look forward to your report. Cheers.
  13. Did you sample a bit? And the other one? The time to ferment has me puzzled, I can only suspect the yeast at this stage. Will be interesting when you take the lids off as to krausen activity.
  14. Sorry Weissbock, downloaded wrong manual, here’s the complete one:- https://brewart.com/101/wp-content/uploads/17493BrewArtBeerDroidInstructionManualAU_v1.1_3LR.pdf
  15. Sorry about your wife’s mum. The health of family must come first and sometimes sacrifices have to be made. Hopefully your interest in brewing and brewing itself can ease some of the burden. Not sure in your situation and Beerdroid offers in the USA but luckily here in Australia Coopers BrewArt purchases can be done via Zip Pay meaning $20/fortnight plus $6/month admin fee. (no extra costs/interest) so I was able to afford the unit 1 then the other. You mentioned the lagers, I was not able to properly do these before as not having (or wanting) a fermentation fridge I was unable to get and control the low temperatures required. Well not to tease but the droid is brilliant in this. Lager mode 12C (54F) and as fermentation is near completion the temp automatically increases to clear up etc as should be done with a lager. The Brewprint lager recipes to date have been brilliant and have opened up a whole new brewing world for me. You will also love the custom mode. January is not far away and hope your able to get a unit. Are you brewing with the traditional plastic fermenters? And temperature control? Have you downloaded the BrewArt manual? If not - https://www.williams-sonoma.com/netstorage/pdf/207349-BrewArt-BrewFlo-Manual.pdf
  16. Good questions. Although in the past I have done brew in a bag stouts and dark ales using grain etc and boiling I have mainly been an advanced kit brewer. In using the tins I have never boiled (and instructions don’t require this) and have not had any infections (touch wood) in many years with the tins, dry/liquid malts or hop pellets. The Brewart E ingredients stand for “elements” and combined are a dry extract equivalent to the tins of extract you buy. (some have hop additions) The “X” range are your dry malt additions with X5 being dextrose. (x1 = light dry malt; X2 = dry wheat malt extract; X3 = dry amber malt extract; X4 dry dark malt extract). Coopers take great care in providing quality products that don’t contain contaminates to effect your brew. So in short you do not have to boil and I have not or heard of anyone that has had an infection in their brew due to these products. With hop pellets if making a hop tea then boiling water is added for steeping purposes. I’ve dry hopped in the fermenter on many, many occasions without any problems and it is normal practice in the brewing world. In many cases infections are caused by your own sanitisation processes. A lot of time can be spent on sanitising equipment etc but often people forget about their hands. If dry hopping for example it it easy to forget about sanitising our hands when we handle the hops, hop bag, container etc. (don’t forget the hop bag or hop container). I always spray my hands with StarSan non rinse sanitiser - fantastic product. So don’t forget about your hands. Trust this has answered your concerns and gives some confidence to a “boiler” 😁🙂. It never hurts to ask questions and can also assist others with similar concerns. Cheers Mark.
  17. That’s a good idea “General Brewing Talk” ? Admin? What do you think?
  18. You will get to love the droid. If you are going to add the hop solution to the droid then remove and replace lid slowly so as not to create too much air turbulence, tip liquid in, in a circle and do not stir. Replace lid. From what your saying I take it that you are going to let the droid go to the store mode to achieve the 3C temperature? If so you will need to chill the keg as well as cold beer into a warm keg will create foaming issues. I fill the keg at the keg mode (that way you can also add hops to the keg) using a silicone sanitised tube, put the lid on and purge the keg with co2 at 30psi. I then put the keg aside at room temperature until a day or so before needing. Then I put the keg in the fridge a chill overnight to around 3C. There are two ways to force carbonate the Ikegger kegs 1) by connecting the co2 to the gas disconnect at 30psi, lay the keg on its side and rock it back and forth fairly rapidly for 2 mins 10l, 100 seconds for 8l and 30 seconds 2l. 2) best method - being able to connect the Co2 to the beer out disconnect and again at 30psi leave the kegs in upright position and rapidly shake back and forth for 100 seconds 10l, 80 seconds for 8l and 20 seconds 2l. In both cases you will hear the bubbling of the Co2. (Different times as with the beer out connection the co2 is bubbling through all of the beer whereas with the gas disconnect it is bubbling into a portion of the beer.) Then put you keg into the fridge, wait for an hour or so until the shaken beer has settled then connect the gas at your serving pressure. Leave for 24 hours and all should be good. Let us know how you go.
  19. Nothing better than a strong stout. Rob on here brewed a Belgian Strong Ale at 8.5% and there is the Kremlin Russian Imperial Stout at 9.5%. If you need info on any ingredients etc, just holler.
  20. Ha ha that’s why, as you have opposite seasons to us. Spring here at the moment. There are a few particular Brewprints that are seasonal only. (Someone in the US was asking was the Wicked Night Pumpkin Ale returning for the Fall.) Keep in contact as it’s good help each other and comment on our brewing results. Cheers
  21. Hope this helps. Where are you located?
  22. They normally do put an “out of stock” note on the Brewprint. Why not order just the ingredients:- 1 x E1; 1 x E5; 3 xX2; Y5 yeast and 2 x P (primer if required for Beerflo)
  23. As Liam has confirmed that amount of yeast would be fine and fermentation should have been fairly active. I assume you did use a lager yeast for the 12C brew, if it was an ale yeast it probably went to sleep. Sorry Rob other than that a hydrometer test should be done. If taking a sample from the tap discard the first 1/4 cup as this will have settled malts etc and can give a false reading. I find it easier to sanitise the hydrometer, carefully lift the lid and place it in the brew for the reading. You will also be able to see if krausen has adhered to the circumference to indicate if fermentation has occurred. Also any bubbles coming to the surface etc. (don’t breathe in there, that could not be good) Cheers
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