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dcm

BrewArtist
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  1. Yep, well, couldn't let the free shipping on orders over $200 slip by. Let's just say that once this lot turns up, I'll be good for dry hopped beer into the new year :-)
  2. Thanks for the tips. Yes, I did cold crash the brew. This is my third dry hop batch but the only one that created sufficient hop sludge at the base of the fermenter to block the tube leading to the tap. I was definitely thinking of a larger tube. Next up is a crack at the Sierra Nevada "torpedo" look alike which looks to have 95g of hops (2 x "H2" - to be replaced with centennial) and 15g each of Magnum, Crystal and Citra. Or maybe Pirate Life IPA.
  3. Yep, you really need to shove it in and once it's home, it doesn't look like I can get it back out so cleaning will be interesting. Last week I made some Narci-Citrus IPA using the dry-hop version. This calls for THREE sachets of hops. Everything to date has been two. It seemed to work ok, I used the (wrong but close) Y4 yeast. Fermentation was, well, vigorous and it smells great. There was a lot of hops in the beer. I was expecting that the filter might clog. It didn't but I still had problems bottling the beer. Upon examination, it seems that hops had formed kind of a plug in the spigot. I have hop bags somewhere but I'm a bit wary about limiting the exposure of the beer to the hops. I'm wondering if I should invest in a hop tube? Something like: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainless-Steel-Homebrew-Beer-Dry-Filter-Hop-Tube-Spiders-Home-Brew-Keg-Bomb-Bag/392877206878?epid=28040131289&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5b794e6d5e:g:a9oAAOSw3ChfEqo1&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkyMJZWL%2BqFSgQ3TOOe%2FNr7m1npaopRR7%2FDnPLZf%2FJ8PrVYrkh7G%2BT4SmsRTrYrNyuwRH9udp4gKR3aKDy%2FMomMqWgrJuwIkX27jbsytVW5L%2BfimOl62563yRu97a5R0vDw3orTQygcfITnNc%2BeolIUY4ng%2FBFbwm%2F8qxEsPh%2BVJ4JuZM%2FvBZjdPCNKd9U%2Fe30ZkY7IJ7tlavXfoUl%2BCgskIL69yV8d941aHGhOojv8RFSMm3%2BRPp8g%2F1DLyMiyFDsSS3dFfPH9uLiX80T8Y8%2FuHweApeT%2FautymI%2FC7Tc98v%2F9T0gMchLpfDD3ULmTIBRWoFv15SUB0vrLSx9pM7Yz6Y0DkZEyLo4u5J2JWGDxbu3IIK%2FrvPmDCEi0UkMnzhxVckXdtAGjC1WasrP9SJsQCqWJ4QgdVHPbCZoFgcNnYfiX3UDe2XI6Y2P0xgmd%2F0ujSnUWzesngAs3SWuXX%2BbZie%2FuqExCb38x1OBHkv5Yd8QQah1QIGeOQ1NbQ5XyXJoa1757t8UVcRDx8O5xP0faKu9h0tQ0lkoep8CVAfRnvDueYarK1t%2BwqqWZcyBcQsQ0F5VXG1cm5aJoKVz4o7cbVA%2FYuH31FogVpcn98jMpKA3ib%2F2IxqzhzLmCOVctS2mmyAfAFZ1FIIoonJtxlyAO8%2BujEUky3TBVfr7DMAkur%2BIn%2B4U4WvBylkkr6sD3L23St3mpqfibX%2Bn8AS4l9VbI%2Fy7CI87oULddvsdbIcpsuSVKf76dXOlXlE658oT%2BNT9|cksum%3A39287720687861340ce5a28247debd273b6c72860cb0|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524 Thoughts?
  4. Has anybody tried the Sierra Nevada Torpedo recipe listed on that (very interesting) worksheet? I'm not on Facebook and I had some questions about it. It seems to be using hop oils supplemented by dry hopping. Does anybody know what the hopping cadence should be? I've made Torpedo "old-school" (boiling grains/hops to make wort) and there are progressive hop doses at different points in primary fermentation. Also, could/should we replace the H2 oil with dry hops? Torpedo Extra IPA is one of my favorite beers but prohibitively expensive here in Australia. It would be great if I could make something like it in my 'droid!
  5. So, I'm into my first dry hop Brewart recipe: mountain IPA. The hop notes seem much sharper and the beer holds its head well. Previously, the head would disappear quite quickly it seems. As an early adopter, I had to manually cold-crash with p0016 but it worked good. Consider me converted... I've upgraded my droid to p0017 and I've just moved my first "Point IPA" into secondary. The filter works just great BUT I bottle into swing-tops. The bottle adapter just doesn't seem to fly for me. It leaks prolifically at the junction with the filler pipe to the point where I must manually switch the tap off and on whilst bottling to manage beer loss. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? Love the beer though. dcm
  6. So, just a little something else to watch out for here with the dry hop variants, the sticky labels on the hop sachets denoting what hop type they contain are a little prone to falling off... Sometimes they fall off in the plastic bag they got shipped in from Brewart, sometimes they fall off into your beer as you are emptying them out and you have to fish soggy label out of your beer. ONE label falling off a hop bag is just a thing. TWO labels falling off TWO hop bags is a dilemma because it is no longer possible to easily determine which hop bag is which 🙂 I think I worked it out ok but be careful. Mountain IPA primary ferment finally finished today so I've chucked in the hops and now have to wait for 48 hours + 48 hours at storage temp. Then two weeks in secondary, preferably three. I'm going to have to go out and buy some actual beer... I won't leave it so long between batches next time.
  7. Ok, Brewart helped me out on this. It is true. For a short while, brews weren't getting flagged as "dry hop". The resolution is to throw in the dry hops at EOF then wait 48 hours until the 'droid automatically pulls the brew down to storage temperature and then leave it at storage temperature for another 48 hours before kegging/bottling. Apparently this will auto-magically fix for my next brew. They can also see what's happening on the fermentation front on my 'droid, presumably they can see more data than I can. The fermentation is winding down normally and I should see EOF in a day or two so it was just a bit of a slow burn yeast. Awesome support as usual from Brewart.
  8. Yep, not so worried about EOF just yet, I have had brews run on a little before and suspect yeast. I'm more concerned that I've missed some milestones for dry hopping. I just sat back and awaited the app to ask me to do something. By day 11, I thought I would have been throwing in some hops.
  9. Ok, for those of us who for various reasons, cannot open up our personal lives to facebook, what should we do? Any clues?
  10. I've long since ditched the plastic screw bottles and gone to swing tops which appear to hold onto carbonation a whole lot better. I've never had a glass bottle fail like that and I *have* dropped one whilst loading it into the secondary ferment fridge. They get a soak in sanitiser, a quick rinse and a dry on the bottle tree. I've got about 3 dozen that rotate around. I've been using them for over a year and no dramas. I haven't even replaced the swingtop seals yet as they look good and work ok. I am going to chuck all my plastic bottles - the beer invariably goes flat after a few weeks in them.
  11. Mmm... 11 days into fermentation and STILL fermenting. That's a bit of a record for me with mountain IPA. Haven't had any messages to dry hop as yet. I hope all is well.
  12. Having been experimenting with modifying Brewprint recipes to include dry hopping (complete with clogged bottle fillers, switched to stocking-derived bags weighted with marbles) for a while, I ordered my filter, bottle adapter and a whole bunch of ingredients (including hops) the day the email hit my inbox. In my haste of course, I ordered Y4 instead of Y1 yeasts but @Barrelboy reckons I should go for it anyway. My firmware is upgraded and I'm going to give one of my favorites, Mountain IPA a go on the dry hop variant (albeit with Y4). I'm looking forward to some punchier hop flavors and some better head retention!
  13. I went a bit nuts when the dry hop recipes came out and ordered ingredients individually to make a 3 IPA and a pale ale. And, I stuffed up the yeast order. I meant to order 4 x Y1 but ordered 4 x Y4. I'm not super-keen on waiting 4 days and paying another $15 for Y1 yeast. My choices are to run with Y4 yeast (hmm...) or, the local brew shop as Safale US-05 which on the face of it, looks like it might do the same thing anyway. Thoughts? I'll be more careful next order...
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