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Hey Mick that is correct, what you have described is part of the 48 hour dry hop cold crash cycle.

The cold crash is predominately to drop the hop sediment out of suspension but also has a secondary benefit where it also drops yeast and other sediments out so you end up with a clearer beer.

So if you don't want to wait It is safe to bottle now.

Edited by xpsTech
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Ok just noticed on my app it says it is now “clearing hops”. I have the app but something went wrong my wifi connection so can’t move it to kegging temp. Is there anyway on the droid you can move the brew to kegging?

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1 hour ago, Mick said:

Ok just noticed on my app it says it is now “clearing hops”. I have the app but something went wrong my wifi connection so can’t move it to kegging temp. Is there anyway on the droid you can move the brew to kegging?

Hi Mick, there is no mechanism to do this either from the Droid or the App while clearing hops.

Your options are, wait until it progresses to Keg or terminate the program, start another program with propagate & ferment temps set to 18C. leave it until temp reached, terminate the program, bottle.

To terminate a brewing program, on the front panel of the Droid Press the X then within 5 seconds press the "tick" to confirm.

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On 29/09/2020 at 8:44 PM, Rob Courtney said:

?

Hey @Rob Courtney

I would probably trash them but would make a judgement call based on how they are packed.

If the pack has been opened - trash them.

If the pack is vacuum sealed or nitrogen filled and not compromised - the're probably ok otherwise trash them.

Hops have an antiseptic characteristic so if stored correctly generally have a good shelf life.

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1 minute ago, xpsTech said:

Hey @Rob Courtney

I would probably trash them but would make a judgement call based on how they are packed.

If the pack has been opened - trash them.

If the pack is vacuum sealed or nitrogen filled and not compromised - the're probably ok otherwise trash them.

Hops have an antiseptic characteristic so if stored correctly generally have a good shelf life.

At this stage, I guess I'll throw them, it is a sealed bag but at the end of the day, I think I paid 5 bucks, not worth stuffing a beer up over

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I kegged the GOAT Amber Ale today and cold crashed for 72 hours as was away for work.

The filter worked perfectly again and when I cleaned it in between kegs there was barely any hop debris inside. Even though the recipe calls for only 50g of hop I think most of this settled into the trub making light work for the filter.

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I got my timeframe a bit mixed up there. It was 48 hours cold crash and 48 hours in storage so a 96 hour cold crash all up.

2 days stuck in "quarantine" in a Sydney hotel does strange things to your sense of time. 14 would be a nightmare. 😷

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So, I am drinking a glass of Lawnmower and it is good, really good.

My question is this for the others using dry hoped brewprints. Have you noticed a difference in the brewprint now that it goes 2 days at normal temp, then 2 days at storage?

My go to, is usually, 2 days dry hop when it gets to EOF, sometimes a day before + the two days but this seems to be a sweet, smooth beer, I think it is better than I have made before, so those who have done the brewprint before and now after the upgrades to the droid, noticed any difference

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6 hours ago, Rob Courtney said:

So, I am drinking a glass of Lawnmower and it is good, really good.

My question is this for the others using dry hoped brewprints. Have you noticed a difference in the brewprint now that it goes 2 days at normal temp, then 2 days at storage?

My go to, is usually, 2 days dry hop when it gets to EOF, sometimes a day before + the two days but this seems to be a sweet, smooth beer, I think it is better than I have made before, so those who have done the brewprint before and now after the upgrades to the droid, noticed any difference

Interesting. I haven’t done the Beerdroid hop mode yet but would suspect a sweeter smoother beer mainly due to the 2 days of cold crash. This would  drop anything suspended in the beer (yeast, hops etc) to the bottom and harden the trub up a bit.

Personally unless right up on stocks and nothing to fill I’m not prepared to add an extra 4 days to the brewing process for possibly a small gain to already top beers.

I usually dry hop around 2 days before EOF. As stated it is a personal preference and the dry hop mode should not be dismissed.

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15 hours ago, Rob Courtney said:

So, I am drinking a glass of Lawnmower and it is good, really good.

My question is this for the others using dry hoped brewprints. Have you noticed a difference in the brewprint now that it goes 2 days at normal temp, then 2 days at storage?

My go to, is usually, 2 days dry hop when it gets to EOF, sometimes a day before + the two days but this seems to be a sweet, smooth beer, I think it is better than I have made before, so those who have done the brewprint before and now after the upgrades to the droid, noticed any difference

I’ll let you know in 6 weeks.

Have the XPA finishing off at the moment and this is the first brew I would’ve done using both the before and after programs.

It was already a fantastic beer so I have very high hopes that a great thing has just got better.

 

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On 24/10/2020 at 2:07 PM, Captain 3 Droids said:

Interesting. I haven’t done the Beerdroid hop mode yet but would suspect a sweeter smoother beer mainly due to the 2 days of cold crash. This would  drop anything suspended in the beer (yeast, hops etc) to the bottom and harden the trub up a bit.

Personally unless right up on stocks and nothing to fill I’m not prepared to add an extra 4 days to the brewing process for possibly a small gain to already top beers.

I usually dry hop around 2 days before EOF. As stated it is a personal preference and the dry hop mode should not be dismissed.

Capt.

I just finished my second brew (GOAT) which is also my first dry hop.  Added the pellets at the EOF per the droid.  It held for 48 hrs, then cold crashed 48 hrs, then back to kegging temperature.  Hooked up the hop filter and hose to my keg and during the entire kegging procedure I could see green fine particles that looked like hop material in the hose past the filter.  At the end of kegging.  The hop filter was absolutely clean and there was considerable hop material sticking to the side walls of the droid that must have been floating on top and deposited during the keg fill.  No hop material left was on bottom or in the filter so it must all be in my keg?

What do you think went wrong?  The green mush on the side walls was way to fine to be caught in the hop filter mesh screen.

 

thanks much as always for the help

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9 minutes ago, Andy said:

Capt.

I just finished my second brew (GOAT) which is also my first dry hop.  Added the pellets at the EOF per the droid.  It held for 48 hrs, then cold crashed 48 hrs, then back to kegging temperature.  Hooked up the hop filter and hose to my keg and during the entire kegging procedure I could see green fine particles that looked like hop material in the hose past the filter.  At the end of kegging.  The hop filter was absolutely clean and there was considerable hop material sticking to the side walls of the droid that must have been floating on top and deposited during the keg fill.  No hop material left was on bottom or in the filter so it must all be in my keg?

What do you think went wrong?  The green mush on the side walls was way to fine to be caught in the hop filter mesh screen.

 

thanks much as always for the help

Hi Andy, that’s very interesting. It would seem the hop pellets broke down to a fine particle (like if you’d had put hop dust in). I would suspect not all the hop material would be in your kegs and any should not have any detrimental effect on the outcome. Remember some brewers put ss hop containers directly into their ss kegs and leave there when consuming.

Whilst your keg is carbonating and maturing any hop sediment should settle to the bottom. Note this brew and let us know how it turns out.

Cheers

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