Customized brews (outside of the brewprints.....)

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

1 hour ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

So you have frozen the remaining 7.5l of FW? It’s common to split into small quantities for using later as yeast starters (needs to be boiled to kill any bacteria) but not aware of freezing for later brew. (I’ll look into that further). @BrewArt TeamYour thoughts please.

Next time I’d do this, (if you can’t get all the air out of the bag) from Woolworths you should get 2 x 5l containers of either demineralised water (great for sanitisers) or the ultra pure water. Add 2.5l to the remaking 7.5l of FW and fill the the 2 sanitised 5l containers. 5l nearly fills to the top so easy to squeeze out the air. Then store in the fridge until required.

@Captain 3 Droids  Yes, I froze the entire 7.5L FW in the original bag making sure to vigorously sanitize and making sure I got as much air out as possible before putting into the freezer.

I had done a fair bit of research across multiple forums and FB Groups and the prevailing advice was to get the air out of the bag and store in the fridge. However that advice changed if you were not going to use it within 4 weeks or so, then freezing until use was the advice.

I chose this option as I won't be brewing with the remaining 7.5l FW until the new year, probably 5, 6 or even 7 weeks from now. So I thought freezing was the best option.

For any future FWK I use, your suggested method makes a lot of sense as they are ready to pour straight into the droid when you are ready to brew with them.

As an FYI, for each of my 4 brews (yeah I know, an expert already 🤣) I have used Pureau water from either Woolies or Coles. They come in 5 or 10l easy to carry boxes which is perfect for the droid and from their website... "Pureau is the only water that is 100% guaranteed to be free from chlorine, bacteria, fluoride, sodium and other impurities that are found in both tap and other bottled waters" .

Oh yeah, another issue I have is space in our fridge and apartment living means not being able to have the room for a second, or rather a third fridge as we also have a wine fridge, for storage of fairly large containers. I struggled to make room for my 5l iKegger with the Hazy IPA inside. Plus my wife hates it when I put the kegs in the fridge.

To be honest, I am seriously envious of @Dustin Frothman and his new 3-tap Kegerator Series X. I'm looking at this as an option as well as possibly building my own using a smaller fridge and buying the kegerator system from iKegger. However, the advantage of buying the Series X would be storage, having currently only 3 kegs of 4 and 5 litres respectively (with a 4th 9.5l half corny on it's way to house this NEIPA, shish, don't tell the wife 😎) with a Series X designed to hold 4x 9.5l kegs, I will have storage room for half FWKs and or bottles to chill before drinking.

Now just need WA for a kegerator or go with the "better to ask for forgiveness than seek approval" approach.

WA = Wife Approval

[Dustin Frothman]

3 minutes ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

@Captain 3 Droids  Yes, I froze the entire 7.5L FW in the original bag making sure to vigorously sanitize and making sure I got as much air out as possible before putting into the freezer.

I had done a fair bit of research across multiple forums and FB Groups and the prevailing advice was to get the air out of the bag and store in the fridge. However that advice changed if you were not going to use it within 4 weeks or so, then freezing until use was the advice.

I chose this option as I won't be brewing with the remaining 7.5l FW until the new year, probably 5, 6 or even 7 weeks from now. So I thought freezing was the best option.

For any future FWK I use, your suggested method makes a lot of sense as they are ready to pour straight into the droid when you are ready to brew with them.

As an FYI, for each of my 4 brews (yeah I know, an expert already 🤣) I have used Pureau water from either Woolies or Coles. They come in 5 or 10l easy to carry boxes which is perfect for the droid and from their website... "Pureau is the only water that is 100% guaranteed to be free from chlorine, bacteria, fluoride, sodium and other impurities that are found in both tap and other bottled waters" .

Oh yeah, another issue I have is space in our fridge and apartment living means not being able to have the room for a second, or rather a third fridge as we also have a wine fridge, for storage of fairly large containers. I struggled to make room for my 5l iKegger with the Hazy IPA inside. Plus my wife hates it when I put the kegs in the fridge.

To be honest, I am seriously envious of @Dustin Frothman and his new 3-tap Kegerator Series X. I'm looking at this as an option as well as possibly building my own using a smaller fridge and buying the kegerator system from iKegger. However, the advantage of buying the Series X would be storage, having currently only 3 kegs of 4 and 5 litres respectively (with a 4th 9.5l half corny on it's way to house this NEIPA, shish, don't tell the wife 😎) with a Series X designed to hold 4x 9.5l kegs, I will have storage room for half FWKs and or bottles to chill before drinking.

Now just need WA for a kegerator or go with the "better to ask for forgiveness than seek approval" approach.

WA = Wife Approval

I got through a large “promotion” at work earlier this year so wife got a new house and I got a kegerator.

I still reckon I won.

[Dustin Frothman]

2 hours ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

@Dustin FrothmanI want to ask, what was your experience with the Lalbrew New England yeast in the  Droid?

The 12 hour propagation has ended according to the Droid but looking thru the window, I see little to no activity.

Checking on the Lallemand website, "Lag phase can be longer when compared with other strains, ranging from 24-36 hours"

Wondering if your experience was similar when doing your NEIPA?

If not, maybe I've done something wrong?

Yet again, this is a good reason to have a couple of modes for the Droid, the standard mode for those who just want to click and forget and an advanced mode for those of us who fancy ourselves as something of a Dr. Frankenstein and like to experiment.

By the way, what were your brew settings for this one? I recall you changed the temps from day 1 to day 3?

Yes I think if you look back through my posts on that one it seemed to take a while to get going. 
 

Next time I use that yeast I may make a starter.

There were a couple of temperature ramps to perform. I can’t recall the schedule but it’s in that first post.

When you run a Brewprint program the temperature ramping is preprogrammed by Brewart. I agree that it would be great to have an advanced mode to enable us to fully customise a program beyond the basic four parameters.

I might add something to the Community Suggestions thread.

[Captain 3 Droids]

You could go a mini fridge, 2 x 9.5l on the floor, 2 x 5l on the back hump, hops on the top shelf, yeast in top rack on the door. Put a gas line in, tap on the door. Easy as.

[Dustin Frothman]

52 minutes ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

 

As an FYI, for each of my 4 brews (yeah I know, an expert already 🤣) I have used Pureau water from either Woolies or Coles. They come in 5 or 10l easy to carry boxes which is perfect for the droid and from their website... "Pureau is the only water that is 100% guaranteed to be free from chlorine, bacteria, fluoride, sodium and other impurities that are found in both tap and other bottled waters" .

I think we've got a thread going somewhere else on here about brewing water. The Coopers/Brewart advice is that if you can drink the water then you can make beer with it.

Obviously though it comes down to preference, and traditionally we have pretty nasty water here in Radelaide so many homes already have an in-line filtration system. 

I fill a sanitised water jerry can out of the kitchen filter tap but before this I put it through a Brita jug with another filter. So I think my double filtered water is probably quite soft once it gets into the Droid.

If you read up a bit on brewing and water chemistry you discover that water stripped of all its minerals is not necessarily ideal. So I managed to grab a brand new pH meter off Gumtree - ironically from a local bloke who just got a job as a brewer at Pirate Life and is selling all his home brew gear - and then a brewing salts starter kit with the necessary minerals etc. 

I want to learn a little bit more around this part of the brewing spectrum and will test my filtered water and perhaps adjust it a little depending on the style of beer I'm after. We're talking tiny amounts of salts anyway, especially for 10L of beer, so its certainly not at all necessary but it will make for an interesting experiment. 

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

@Dustin Frothman yeah, I have been spending an inordinate amount of time reading up on brewing and watching home brew YouTube videos. Enough so that it is literally driving my wife mad.

I've seen and read how important it is to get the water chemistry just right, especially for certain types of beers such as Hazy IPAs and NEIPAs. However, all that focuses on the all grain brewing with the boiling and sparge water.

I have yet to see a single resource on how water will impact a brew if using a FWK, can, BeerDroid, etc.

This would be very interesting to look at in detail, yet another rabbit hole to pursue.

The reason for the Pureau water is that Sydney water is extremely variable dependent upon where you specifically live and the time of year, the amount of rainfall in previous months, etc and I wanted to take the variables out of it.

I first looked at using bottled spring water but again, the massive variances of such things as ph levels and the levels for salts and minerals that they contain just did my head in. And yeah, I saw your post about your filtered water and a few other similar posts so decided to go with the Pureau.

I also do recall that using reverse osmosis water is the best starting place and then adding your own salts and minerals to make your desired water profile.

Mr. Rabbit, wait for me because here I come...

[Dustin Frothman]

1 minute ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

@Dustin Frothman yeah, I have been spending an inordinate amount of time reading up on brewing and watching home brew YouTube videos. Enough so that it is literally driving my wife mad.

I've seen and read how important it is to get the water chemistry just right, especially for certain types of beers such as Hazy IPAs and NEIPAs. However, all that focuses on the all grain brewing with the boiling and sparge water.

I have yet to see a single resource on how water will impact a brew if using a FWK, can, BeerDroid, etc.

This would be very interesting to look at in detail, yet another rabbit hole to pursue.

The reason for the Pureau water is that Sydney water is extremely variable dependent upon where you specifically live and the time of year, the amount of rainfall in previous months, etc and I wanted to take the variables out of it.

I first looked at using bottled spring water but again, the massive variances of such things as ph levels and the levels for salts and minerals that they contain just did my head in. And yeah, I saw your post about your filtered water and a few other similar posts so decided to go with the Pureau.

I also do recall that using reverse osmosis water is the best starting place and then adding your own salts and minerals to make your desired water profile.

Mr. Rabbit, wait for me because here I come...

Yes it's quite variable here too.

We had quite a wet winter and the associated nutrient runoff into the reservoirs. Some weeks you could smell huge amounts of chlorine in mains supply. It was gross.

Reverse Osmosis is the gold standard but a quality in-line water filter and my jug method gets pretty close.

I'm just keen now to see how close.

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

On 25/11/21 at 8:15 PM, Dustin Frothman said:

In a normal session I'll drink 3 pints. Changing the keg in the Brewflo 3 times in a session is a bit cumbersome

3 beers in a session? How many sessions per day? 😄

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

On 03/12/2021 at 9:29 AM, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

@Dustin FrothmanI want to ask, what was your experience with the Lalbrew New England yeast in the  Droid?

The 12 hour propagation has ended according to the Droid but looking thru the window, I see little to no activity.

Checking on the Lallemand website, "Lag phase can be longer when compared with other strains, ranging from 24-36 hours"

Wondering if your experience was similar when doing your NEIPA?

If not, maybe I've done something wrong?

Yet again, this is a good reason to have a couple of modes for the Droid, the standard mode for those who just want to click and forget and an advanced mode for those of us who fancy ourselves as something of a Dr. Frankenstein and like to experiment.

By the way, what were your brew settings for this one? I recall you changed the temps from day 1 to day 3?

Okay so an update. Almost 3 full days into the brew and only this morning do I finally see some rather vigorous activity in the Droid. Yesterday, I did notice that there was some small bubbles rising in the Droid when peaking the viewing window but before that, it was all quiet.

So this confirms, the Lallemand LalBrew New England™ American East Coast Ale Yeast is a very slow starter as advertised.

This may also be due to a possible "under pitching" of the yeast where @Dustin Frothman used the entire 11g package in his NEIPA and I took the approach to split the package and only pitched half, approximately 5.5g.

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I've got the remaining half packet in a freezer bag in the freezer and I have another full packet in the fridge for the next brew.
 

[Hambone]

1 hour ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

Okay so an update. Almost 3 full days into the brew and only this morning do I finally see some rather vigorous activity in the Droid. Yesterday, I did notice that there was some small bubbles rising in the Droid when peaking the viewing window but before that, it was all quiet.

So this confirms, the Lallemand LalBrew New England™ American East Coast Ale Yeast is a very slow starter as advertised.

This may also be due to a possible "under pitching" of the yeast where @Dustin Frothman used the entire 11g package in his NEIPA and I took the approach to split the package and only pitched half, approximately 5.5g.

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I've got the remaining half packet in a freezer bag in the freezer and I have another full packet in the fridge for the next brew.
 

I would go with the Verdant IPA yeast on a subsequent batch. Very nice an fruity, pitch the whole thing though.

cheers

 

[Dustin Frothman]

There it is - the custom NEIPA at the minimum 14 days secondary for carbonation.

Fantastic. It tastes like orange juice. To be really true to the style it probably needs some flaked oats steeped in the stovetop boil to get that creamy texture but the Lallemand New England yeast definitely gives it the right character.

I might give the keg another week or so but perhaps this could be an early drinker. I’d be very happy to be wrong about it needing a minimum of 4 weeks.

I reckon @Wazza_wantsbeerwould love this one.

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

13 hours ago, Dustin Frothman said:

There it is - the custom NEIPA at the minimum 14 days secondary for carbonation.

Fantastic. It tastes like orange juice. To be really true to the style it probably needs some flaked oats steeped in the stovetop boil to get that creamy texture but the Lallemand New England yeast definitely gives it the right character.

I might give the keg another week or so but perhaps this could be an early drinker. I’d be very happy to be wrong about it needing a minimum of 4 weeks.

I reckon @Wazza_wantsbeerwould love this one.

Is it wrong that I got semi-wood looking at that picture?

Wow, @Dustin Frothman that looks seriously good, my mouth is just watering looking at that picture.

So other than having a little more body/texture and "thickness" by adding some Oats, anything else that you would change?

I definitely want to try this recipe in the new year.

BTW, got the notice to dry hop last night at 10 pm, fortunately we had just started a huge migration for one of our biggest customers and was busy working from 7 pm until 11 pm when I noticed the notification from the App.

So I dry hopped with 33g each of recommended hops, Azacca, El Dorado and Sabro. First time smelling those hops out of the packets and wow, some amazing smell. I kept sniffing my hands for the rest of the night before getting to sleep.

One thing I am a little concerned about, when opening the lid of the Droid to chuck the hops in, I thought that the brew looked a little dark so I am a bit concerned about oxidation which is the sworn enemy of a NEIPA.

I will do a closed transfer to my brand spanking new Keg King 9.5l 1/2 corny and only a single bottle for tasting at the 14 day mark.

I can only hope that my NEIPA turns out half as good as the one in the picture @Dustin Frothman

Edited December 9, 2021 by Wazza_wantsbeer
Wording change

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

On 06/12/2021 at 6:47 PM, Hambone said:

I would go with the Verdant IPA yeast on a subsequent batch. Very nice an fruity, pitch the whole thing though.

cheers

 

My next brew once my All Inn Brewing NEIPA is done will be a all NZ hopped DDH Hazy IPA and I plan on using Lellamand's Verdant IPA yeast as well. Been reading some really good reviews and YouTube vids about this yeast and looks to have the flavour profile I'm seeking.

So this will end up being recipe version 5, or is that 6, for the Hazy IPA thread  😎

[Captain 3 Droids]

3 minutes ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

One thing I am a little concerned about, when opening the lid of the Droid to chuck the hops in, I thought that the brew looked a little dark so I am a bit concerned about oxidation which is the sworn enemy of a NEIPA.

Remember the inside of the Droid is black, just looking in won’t give a true picture and also not everything has settled out of solution. Have you looked via the viewing window?

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

2 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

Remember the inside of the Droid is black, just looking in won’t give a true picture and also not everything has settled out of solution. Have you looked via the viewing window?

@Captain 3 Droids yes, I understand that it will look dark because of the block inside of the droid. I did turn the light on when I did that and it certainly looks darker than what I recall from the DD Hazy IPA at the same stage just 10 days or so ago.

Looking through the viewing port, light on, also gives me that same impression. It was lighter until a day or so ago, hence my concerns.

Time will tell I guess.

[Dustin Frothman]

@Wazza_wantsbeerI'll reserve my final judgement on the recipe until we've finished the keg but the taster bottle was really nice and my wife loved it. She loves NEIPAs as much as you. Perhaps the carbonation was a little low but it's been cool in Adelaide lately and perhaps it just needed a little longer. I would definitely steep some flaked oats next time, but that said the person on the Facebook group that designed and refined this recipe has done an amazing job and I'm incredibly impressed.

Re your worries about colour etc. I just wouldn't bother yourself with it. My NEIPA looked quite dark through the viewing port and it's turned out perfectly. Other than using the port as a volume guide when filling kegs or bottles I don't even look at it anymore. But I get it, it's there and it's exciting initially and you just can't help looking and wondering.

You're getting some great momentum with your brewing now and you'll find that the more you brew the less you worry about anything other than cleaning and sanitation, because really they're the only variables you need to focus on when you use a BeerDroid and that's why I think they're so fantastic. Oh and you also develop monk like patience ... funny how those monks were the OG brewers hey?! 😆

Some great tips I've learned so far that may help you when dry hopping:

• Sanitise everything including your hands, scissors and the hop packets before you cut them open.
• Sanitise the lid of the Droid, the handle, and around the lid seam after you've replaced the lid.
• Keep the lid open for the absolute minimum amount of time that it takes to drop the hops in, e.g. crack the lid, lift it slightly, dump the hops, replace the lid and then sanitise. This would be no more than 10 seconds for me.
• Don't hold the lid open and peer in for a look because firstly what's the point? And secondly, the longer you keep the lid open the higher the risk of introducing something nasty and spoiling it. 
• When you take your tap clearing sample before you keg or bottle you can smell and taste your beer at this point for quality control purposes. You'll know if something is wrong.

* Get a second Droid when you're able because when you have 2 brews on the go at once you stress less about the other one.

** Buying two Droids may require more bottles or kegs.

*** You may need a bigger apartment/house/shed ...

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

13 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said:

Get a second Droid when you're able because when you have 2 brews on the go at once you stress less about the other one.

3 Droids and no stress at all.😴

Funny about the viewing windows, don’t  use them much now accept when I think that fermentation may not be completed although Droid gives the EOF ready to keg message. If I’m keen to keg then I check for any sign of Co2 bubbles otherwise leave for a day.

When I first got Droid #1, I thought I was going to blow the Droid light globe as I checked so much.🤭💡🧨

[Dustin Frothman]

3 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

When I first got Droid #1, I thought I was going to blow the Droid light globe as I checked so much.🤭💡🧨

Guilty as charged!

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

33 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said:

@Wazza_wantsbeerI'll reserve my final judgement on the recipe until we've finished the keg but the taster bottle was really nice and my wife loved it. She loves NEIPAs as much as you. Perhaps the carbonation was a little low but it's been cool in Adelaide lately and perhaps it just needed a little longer. I would definitely steep some flaked oats next time, but that said the person on the Facebook group that designed and refined this recipe has done an amazing job and I'm incredibly impressed.

Re your worries about colour etc. I just wouldn't bother yourself with it. My NEIPA looked quite dark through the viewing port and it's turned out perfectly. Other than using the port as a volume guide when filling kegs or bottles I don't even look at it anymore. But I get it, it's there and it's exciting initially and you just can't help looking and wondering.

You're getting some great momentum with your brewing now and you'll find that the more you brew the less you worry about anything other than cleaning and sanitation, because really they're the only variables you need to focus on when you use a BeerDroid and that's why I think they're so fantastic. Oh and you also develop monk like patience ... funny how those monks were the OG brewers hey?! 😆

Some great tips I've learned so far that may help you when dry hopping:

• Sanitise everything including your hands, scissors and the hop packets before you cut them open.
• Sanitise the lid of the Droid, the handle, and around the lid seam after you've replaced the lid.
• Keep the lid open for the absolute minimum amount of time that it takes to drop the hops in, e.g. crack the lid, lift it slightly, dump the hops, replace the lid and then sanitise. This would be no more than 10 seconds for me.
• Don't hold the lid open and peer in for a look because firstly what's the point? And secondly, the longer you keep the lid open the higher the risk of introducing something nasty and spoiling it. 
• When you take your tap clearing sample before you keg or bottle you can smell and taste your beer at this point for quality control purposes. You'll know if something is wrong.

* Get a second Droid when you're able because when you have 2 brews on the go at once you stress less about the other one.

** Buying two Droids may require more bottles or kegs.

*** You may need a bigger apartment/house/shed ...

 

Points 1, 3, 4 were definitely done, with every brew so far I might add.

I didn't post sanitise after dropping in the hops as it didn't occur to me but will certainly do that next time.

Point 5, I always smell and taste that first 250 ml first pour from the Droid before kegging/bottling. Heck, who am I kidding, I even drink the last dregs post kegging and bottling, getting every drop of that beer goodness.

A second Droid will have to wait until your *** need a bigger apartment/house.

Aint this the truth. If we ever go back to a house, I will stick with a single droid but will move into BIAB and likely all grain brewing if I had the space as I am enjoying this so much! The Droid will then be able to do it's thing whilst I experiment and do the much more involved and time consuming all grain brewing.

I had a good chat with my mate who's very much into brewing to the point where he wants to go professional in time, anyway, he said that if he had the spare cash, he would look at a Droid after sharing my experiences with him and him doing his own research on the Droid and BrewArt. Heck, he even joined the BrewArt FB group. He thought having a Droid, he would be able to do the quick, simple yet excellent brews for his consumption whilst using his All Grain brewing for the learning the trade business.

That tells you something.

[Dustin Frothman]

3 minutes ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said:

Points 1, 3, 4 were definitely done, with every brew so far I might add.

I didn't post sanitise after dropping in the hops as it didn't occur to me but will certainly do that next time.

Point 5, I always smell and taste that first 250 ml first pour from the Droid before kegging/bottling. Heck, who am I kidding, I even drink the last dregs post kegging and bottling, getting every drop of that beer goodness.

A second Droid will have to wait until your *** need a bigger apartment/house.

Aint this the truth. If we ever go back to a house, I will stick with a single droid but will move into BIAB and likely all grain brewing if I had the space as I am enjoying this so much! The Droid will then be able to do it's thing whilst I experiment and do the much more involved and time consuming all grain brewing.

I had a good chat with my mate who's very much into brewing to the point where he wants to go professional in time, anyway, he said that if he had the spare cash, he would look at a Droid after sharing my experiences with him and him doing his own research on the Droid and BrewArt. Heck, he even joined the BrewArt FB group. He thought having a Droid, he would be able to do the quick, simple yet excellent brews for his consumption whilst using his All Grain brewing for the learning the trade business.

That tells you something.

No worries, I guess the reason for posting those tips was to demonstrate that it's all I focus on when opening the lid on the Droid. I don't worry about much else. It's great that you're already doing all that then.

If you've got an apartment balcony then you've got a brewery ...

When you look at what's available on the market for temperature controlled "smart" brewing there really isn't anything that comes close to the Droid. Perhaps the only limitation is the 10L volume but for some users like me 10L is perfect as I don't want 20L of the same beer. The thing is so flexible that in my opinion it's almost a no brainer.

[Captain 3 Droids]

I understand there are a few brewers that have gone into the professional side of brewing that use the Droid for experimentation and confirmation of recipes and then equate the recipe to that of a much larger commercial  type batch. Certainly minimises potential wastage.

[Captain 3 Droids]

2 hours ago, Dustin Frothman said:

but for some users like me 10L is perfect as I don't want 20L of the same beer.

Couldn’t agree more. When I was brewing the conventional plastic fermenter way of 23l with struggling consistency of temperature control,  a 10l and 12l keg of the same brew in a number of cases was “oh not again”. But with the Droid, BrewArt ingredients and results give such a selection of choice however with a number of brews I wish the Droid was sometimes 60l 😂

That being said, the 10l capacity is why I have stalled possibilities of dementia as I have to think so much about what I’m going to brew next. 

[Dustin Frothman]

2 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

Couldn’t agree more. When I was brewing the conventional plastic fermenter way of 23l with struggling consistency of temperature control,  a 10l and 12l keg of the same brew in a number of cases was “oh not again”. But with the Droid, BrewArt ingredients and results give such a selection of choice however with a number of brews I wish the Droid was sometimes 60l 😂

That being said, the 10l capacity is why I have stalled possibilities of dementia as I have to think so much about what I’m going to brew next. 

What fantastic First World problems we have! 😆

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

Kegging time for the All Inn Brewing NEIPA.

I think my fears about oxidation have come true.

Rather than the expected un kissed orange haze, it's dark, almost brown in colour.

😔

Thoughts on how I might recover this?

Ascorbic Acid in the keg?

[Wazza_wantsbeer]

Just reading whatever I can on the interweb, there are some who advocate using secondary fermentation as once in the keg and given a food source, the yeast can help to clean up the oxidation.

Was planning to force carbonate this so it would be drinkable for Xmas eve/day but now thinking, I have two of the BrewArt Primers, what if I put those into the 9.5l keg, add CO2, then closed transfer from Droid to keg and then cross my fingers for 2 weeks?

Any other ideas from the brains trust?