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Tea Party Lager Temperature ramping


Willy S

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Hi all,


First time droider, first time poster here. So hi. I have lurked, I have read and I have learned prior to purchasing.

 

My question is regarding Temperature Ramping. Why / when does the droid do this? I can't find any documentation on it anywhere. 

 

I am brewing with the standard program for the tea party larger (my inaugural brew). I assume coopers know best, so i am trying to not be too worried, but I have in the back of my mind that lagers need cooler temperatures - the droid has automatically ramped mine up twice - it is now at  17 degrees - on my 5th day of brewing. I have noticed that the effervescence has considerably slowed to the point where, if I activate the light, I can barely see any bubbles blooping towards the surface at all (this slowed to almost a stop after day 3). Having seen that others have had particularly active brews to the point where they have had some seepage on the same brew-print, I am worried now that I have somehow contaminated my batch....

 

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for listening!

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6 hours ago, Willy S said:

Hi all,


First time droider, first time poster here. So hi. I have lurked, I have read and I have learned prior to purchasing.

 

My question is regarding Temperature Ramping. Why / when does the droid do this? I can't find any documentation on it anywhere. 

 

I am brewing with the standard program for the tea party larger (my inaugural brew). I assume coopers know best, so i am trying to not be too worried, but I have in the back of my mind that lagers need cooler temperatures - the droid has automatically ramped mine up twice - it is now at  17 degrees - on my 5th day of brewing. I have noticed that the effervescence has considerably slowed to the point where, if I activate the light, I can barely see any bubbles blooping towards the surface at all (this slowed to almost a stop after day 3). Having seen that others have had particularly active brews to the point where they have had some seepage on the same brew-print, I am worried now that I have somehow contaminated my batch....

 

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for listening!

It is getting near end of fermentation and I believe the raise of temperature helps the yeast consume the last of the sugar. This is prevalent in lager brews and starts to happen anytime after day 4.

The brew is more than likely not contaminated, when people talk about seepage, they are usually brewing ales/high alcohol brews and the yeast is so vigorous, there is some overflo, which is normal, that is why they have a vent in the droid.

I have found that with proper cleaning of the droid and the yeast going in the water first, it is pretty hard to bugger up a brew, you will be fine. The hardest part is letting the beer sit after kegging/bottling for a couple of months. It can be drunk after 2 weeks but becomes better with each week you wait

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6 hours ago, Willy S said:

Hi all,


First time droider, first time poster here. So hi. I have lurked, I have read and I have learned prior to purchasing.

 

My question is regarding Temperature Ramping. Why / when does the droid do this? I can't find any documentation on it anywhere. 

 

I am brewing with the standard program for the tea party larger (my inaugural brew). I assume coopers know best, so i am trying to not be too worried, but I have in the back of my mind that lagers need cooler temperatures - the droid has automatically ramped mine up twice - it is now at  17 degrees - on my 5th day of brewing. I have noticed that the effervescence has considerably slowed to the point where, if I activate the light, I can barely see any bubbles blooping towards the surface at all (this slowed to almost a stop after day 3). Having seen that others have had particularly active brews to the point where they have had some seepage on the same brew-print, I am worried now that I have somehow contaminated my batch....

 

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks for listening!

Hi Willy, Mark here and welcome to the forum.

In general lager yeasts are slow acting yeasts and “bottom feeders” of the sugars (ales generally top feeders). Near the end of fermentation the temperature of the brew is ramped up (to 15C then 17C) to “mop up” any remaining sugars. The higher temp gives the yeast a bit more activity to do this as at 12C it is really slowing down.

Rob’s correct about seepage, overflow of the krausen happens in ordinary plastic fermenters. You’ll know if a brew is infected, the smell and taste are good indicators.

Trust this helps, what styles do you prefer?

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11 hours ago, Barrelboy said:

Hi Willy, Mark here and welcome to the forum.

In general lager yeasts are slow acting yeasts and “bottom feeders” of the sugars (ales generally top feeders). Near the end of fermentation the temperature of the brew is ramped up (to 15C then 17C) to “mop up” any remaining sugars. The higher temp gives the yeast a bit more activity to do this as at 12C it is really slowing down.

Rob’s correct about seepage, overflow of the krausen happens in ordinary plastic fermenters. You’ll know if a brew is infected, the smell and taste are good indicators.

Trust this helps, what styles do you prefer?

Oh that's just what I wrote but with facts and information

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  • 1 year later...

So, putting one of these on. The equivalent of a Sammy Adams Boston Lager a beer that I had once and thought "that's pretty good" but on the other few times I have had it, wasn't impressed. Interesting that it is asking for Challenger hops in it as I am really tempted to go Galaxy because ...welll Galaxy but shall go the Challenger.

Interested to see how this one goes, looking at the brewprint info it looks like it may be as bitter as your wife when you accidentally sleep with her sister

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So it is 4 weeks (ish) and I' thought I'd give some insight.

A very dark lager to start with but a lager with honey and malt flavours. I might try one of htese tomorrow, early on to get a better idea but first thought are that it is not bad, easy to drink. If I do drink one tomorrow, I wil take a pic but t isn't the usual lager straw colour, more teak

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10 hours ago, Rob Courtney said:

So it is 4 weeks (ish) and I' thought I'd give some insight.

A very dark lager to start with but a lager with honey and malt flavours. I might try one of htese tomorrow, early on to get a better idea but first thought are that it is not bad, easy to drink. If I do drink one tomorrow, I wil take a pic but t isn't the usual lager straw colour, more teak

For a dark lager try the Revolution Dark Lager, darn good drop.

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At five and a half weeks, this isn't far off a Samuel Adams. Not sure I'd brew it again, to be honest as I prefer crisper lagers  but will be interested to see how it pans out. There is nice bitterness to it and the Chalenger hops are pretty nice in it...lets put it this way, I wouldn't turn one down if it was offered.

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9 hours ago, Rob Courtney said:

Finished the last of it tonight...think 10 weeks. I mean nice beer, maybe a 6.5 out of 10, maybe 7. Think it'd benefit from having some fruit flavours in the hops to be honest. Still go with a not in top 10 beer but still a very good beer

Have not done this one, the recipe description states a sweetness. Did you find that? What additional hops would you recommend?

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4 hours ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

Have not done this one, the recipe description states a sweetness. Did you find that? What additional hops would you recommend?

Not really a sweetness more malty ( for me at least) but I can see what they are saying. If I was doing something different towards hops I'd maybe go Amarillo, maybe Simcoe, something just to give it a bit of citrus, or maybe Lemondrops though I will have a better idea in a few weeks when I try the Aus Premium I have hopped with Lemondrops...initial tasting from droid was acceptable

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