I feel like this is basic question

[Ryan Shockley]

I am used to BIAB fermentation but they still have implicit instructions... this is just a touch lacking.. Are the solid sugar/sucrose bars supposed to be added with the rest of the ingredients at the start or boil them down with water and add a few hours prior to racking, to move to secondary/bottle conditioning?

[Rob Courtney]

1 hour ago, Ryan Shockley said:

I am used to BIAB fermentation but they still have implicit instructions... this is just a touch lacking.. Are the solid sugar/sucrose bars supposed to be added with the rest of the ingredients at the start or boil them down with water and add a few hours prior to racking, to move to secondary/bottle conditioning?

Hi Ryan, welcome to the forum.

The solid sucrose bars are to be added into the brewart kegs when kegging. If you are bottling, you could just use carb drops. They aren't meant to go into the droid as such. When putting your mix into the droid, just the yeast (first) and then the other E or X ingredients (in any order). If you use the hop pouches (liquid) they can be added to the Brewart kegs if kegging at the same time as the sugar bars, or if bottling, add at End of fermentation and leave for a day or two. If you decide to use dry hops, then depending on what you are brewing, people on her can make a recommendation on when to add the hops.

 

Ask any question you want, that is what this forum community is for

[Ryan Shockley]

7 hours ago, Rob Courtney said:

Hi Ryan, welcome to the forum.

The solid sucrose bars are to be added into the brewart kegs when kegging. If you are bottling, you could just use carb drops. They aren't meant to go into the droid as such. When putting your mix into the droid, just the yeast (first) and then the other E or X ingredients (in any order). If you use the hop pouches (liquid) they can be added to the Brewart kegs if kegging at the same time as the sugar bars, or if bottling, add at End of fermentation and leave for a day or two. If you decide to use dry hops, then depending on what you are brewing, people on her can make a recommendation on when to add the hops.

 

Ask any question you want, that is what this forum community is for

Thank you much.

 

I am going to try and play with the Belgium strong and debating on putting it in a headspaced carboy and repitch using some Wyeast 3068 and corn sugar (basically going for a double strength banana bomb) or seeing if I could re-pitch in the droid.

[Captain 3 Droids]

5 hours ago, Ryan Shockley said:

Thank you much.

 

I am going to try and play with the Belgium strong and debating on putting it in a headspaced carboy and repitch using some Wyeast 3068 and corn sugar (basically going for a double strength banana bomb) or seeing if I could re-pitch in the droid.

Another warm welcome Ryan. Can’t see any reason not to re-pitch in the droid however I’d probably go the carbon route so I could brew another recipe.

Cheers and feel free to ask away.

[Ryan Shockley]

3 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

Another warm welcome Ryan. Can’t see any reason not to re-pitch in the droid however I’d probably go the carbon route so I could brew another recipe.

Cheers and feel free to ask away.

Thank you so very much, so a question on this... if I were to re-pitch, are there are any considerations to take as there is no airlock (EG do I need to artificially headspace with a sanitized medium (IE glass marbles)) if I re-pitch and want to avoid oxidization or wild yeast contamination in the beerdroid? or am I overthinking this process?

[Captain 3 Droids]

16 minutes ago, Ryan Shockley said:

Thank you so very much, so a question on this... if I were to re-pitch, are there are any considerations to take as there is no airlock (EG do I need to artificially headspace with a sanitized medium (IE glass marbles)) if I re-pitch and want to avoid oxidization or wild yeast contamination in the beerdroid? or am I overthinking this process?

Can you get a cork or rubber bung for the carboy, drill a hole for an airlock? Otherwise the glass marble would work. The issue with oxidisation is not so much with the repitching (co2 will be produced) but with the transfer from the droid. If you can’t do this via tubing then just pouring into the carbon directly from the droid tap does have some risk.

So, no cork/plastic bung, no tubing then for this run I’d re-pitch in the droid.

[Ryan Shockley]

13 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

Can you get a cork or rubber bung for the carboy, drill a hole for an airlock? Otherwise the glass marble would work. The issue with oxidisation is not so much with the repitching (co2 will be produced) but with the transfer from the droid. If you can’t do this via tubing then just pouring into the carbon directly from the droid tap does have some risk.

So, no cork/plastic bung, no tubing then for this run I’d re-pitch in the droid.

Oh I meant for in the droid, as opening the top is breaking the seal, thus wanting to re-headspace the droid and where to do such? (EG 5mm from brim?) sorry if I was unclear.

Edited January 29, 2021 by Ryan Shockley

[Captain 3 Droids]

46 minutes ago, Ryan Shockley said:

Oh I meant for in the droid, as opening the top is breaking the seal, thus wanting to re-headspace the droid and where to do such? (EG 5mm from brim?) sorry if I was unclear.

The lid as such is not quite a true seal as it allows for krausen overflow on the left hand side. I remove the lid near EOF to dry hop. Remove it slowly so as not to cause a “suction” effect and the same replacing as not to push the air/co2 out. Pour your re-pitch in slowly as well. 
Past information suggests the Droids function working capacity is 11 litres so I’d go for that. (5mm from the brim would cause considerable overflow issues)

Cheers

[Ryan Shockley]

7 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said:

The lid as such is not quite a true seal as it allows for krausen overflow on the left hand side. I remove the lid near EOF to dry hop. Remove it slowly so as not to cause a “suction” effect and the same replacing as not to push the air/co2 out. Pour your re-pitch in slowly as well. 
Past information suggests the Droids function working capacity is 11 litres so I’d go for that. (5mm from the brim would cause considerable overflow issues)

Cheers

Using the Belgium strong brewprint (9l) so if I add .5l sucrose, then headspace to 10ish L, line I should be fine?

[Captain 3 Droids]

4 minutes ago, Ryan Shockley said:

Using the Belgium strong brewprint (9l) so if I add .5l sucrose, then headspace to 10ish L, line I should be fine?

That would be spot on. Will be interested in how this turns out.