Liquid Malt Extract

[Alan Batchelor]

Hello All,

Sorry if this topic is somewhere else but I couldn't find anything. So I purchased a can of Briess Pale Ale Liquid Malt Extract (LME). The can is 3.3 lbs but instructions do not really tell me how much to use for 10 liters in Beerdriod. I am think 2/3 of the can (2.2lbs) and top up to 10l with spring water.

I have never used LME, I assume add to water and warm gently until melted/mixed. Let cool. Add to beerdriod, add yeast and start pale ale manually. Drop hop with what ever I feel like.

Anyone have any thoughts?

~Alan

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

3 hours ago, Alan Batchelor said:

Hello All,

Sorry if this topic is somewhere else but I couldn't find anything. So I purchased a can of Briess Pale Ale Liquid Malt Extract (LME). The can is 3.3 lbs but instructions do not really tell me how much to use for 10 liters in Beerdriod. I am think 2/3 of the can (2.2lbs) and top up to 10l with spring water.

I have never used LME, I assume add to water and warm gently until melted/mixed. Let cool. Add to beerdriod, add yeast and start pale ale manually. Drop hop with what ever I feel like.

Anyone have any thoughts?

~Alan

 

Hi Alan. You could just do as you say ie mix the liquid malt in hot water, cool, add to droid, water to 10l, yeast and press the ale mode. Dry hop later on. 

However In a lot of cases liquid malt is used like you would use a dry malt extract ie add to either a can of a particular brew (1/2 can for 10l) or mix the liquid in hot water, put in droid, add water, add yeast, add E elements from a recipe that requires X1 ingredients.

Now what you have is an excellent malt and at equivalent weight = 1.5kg = 6 lots of 250g of X1 sachets. You probably don’t want to add all that, use 50%, replace cap on tin, fridge for next time.
Cheers Mark

[Alan Batchelor]

Mark, thanks for the tips. 
I have a bunch of E and X elements. 

E5 x 2

my own style yeast SAFALE-04 

dry hop with Citra D6 and galaxy D7

Maybe add X1 and an x2

What do you think Boss?

~Alan

 

 

 

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

31 minutes ago, Alan Batchelor said:

Mark, thanks for the tips. 
I have a bunch of E and X elements. 

E5 x 2

my own style yeast SAFALE-04 

dry hop with Citra D6 and galaxy D7

Maybe add X1 and an x2

What do you think Boss?

~Alan

 

 

 

 

If your using your liquid malt then personally I wouldn’t bother with the X1. The full tin plus 2 x E5 will give you about 6.1%, with an X1 as well will bump it another 1% and X2 another 1%. Up to you.

Hop and yeast selection will be just nice.

Mark

Edited August 18, 2020 by Barrelboy

[Alan Batchelor]

Thanks Mark. Dropping the x’s

will let you know how it comes out.

Thanks for all the advice!!

 

~Alan

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

1 hour ago, Alan Batchelor said:

Thanks Mark. Dropping the x’s

will let you know how it comes out.

Thanks for all the advice!!

 

~Alan

 

Pleasure

[Wolf]

Gravedigging a little on this thread but I think it may be useful information for future reference. In a normal plastic fermenter (not a beer droid) I literally dropped a can of Breiss lme into cold water with enough from the kettle to bring it up to about 19c. The LME sat in a big pile on the bottom.  Over the next couple of days the goop level has steadily dropped (marks at 0, 1, 2 days). I don't think it's strictly necessary to heat the liquid to dissolve it, the yeast is going to get in there and do its thing over time.

 

[Captain 3 Droids]

6 minutes ago, Wolf said:

Gravedigging a little on this thread but I think it may be useful information for future reference. In a normal plastic fermenter (not a beer droid) I literally dropped a can of Breiss lme into cold water with enough from the kettle to bring it up to about 19c. The LME sat in a big pile on the bottom.  Over the next couple of days the goop level has steadily dropped (marks at 0, 1, 2 days). I don't think it's strictly necessary to heat the liquid to dissolve it, the yeast is going to get in there and do its thing over time.

 

Interesting experiment. Could you report on the sediment once you have bottled/kegged? 

[Wolf]

Will do.

There is a definite acceleration in the sludge disappearing now, only a tiny bit left on the bottom of the vessel and the wort is noticably darker. Best guess is as the sugar in the wort is removed by the yeast it frees up the water to dissolve more of the sugar from the sludge. Unsure how long to leave this one, might test the gravity a few days after the last of the sludge vanishes.

[Captain 3 Droids]

6 minutes ago, Wolf said:

Will do.

There is a definite acceleration in the sludge disappearing now, only a tiny bit left on the bottom of the vessel and the wort is noticably darker. Best guess is as the sugar in the wort is removed by the yeast it frees up the water to dissolve more of the sugar from the sludge. Unsure how long to leave this one, might test the gravity a few days after the last of the sludge vanishes.

I’m fairly sure it is @Thagomizerwho actually puts a can of Mr Beer directly into the Droid with just a bit of a stir and is all consumed by the yeast.

[J P]

ive definitely overdone it with heating the syrups (basically semi-cooked them into a darker wort--not to my advantage i'll say that.  makes pouring easy, but even the light beer came out dark and lacked the subtleties of the lighter liquid malt.

i've also had infections (presumably from stirring spoon or bucket used to pre-dilute the syrup before putting into droid)

game-changer if you don't have to work hard stirring them up!!

[Wolf]

14 minutes ago, J P said:

i've also had infections (presumably from stirring spoon or bucket used to pre-dilute the syrup before putting into droid)

game-changer if you don't have to work hard stirring them up!!

This is my big worry, that and crapping up the kitchenware and making the house smell like Milo. I have ordered a droid because I don't have the space or motivation for a full brew setup, until it arrives I'm going to keep experimenting in the plastic fermenter to see the least effort required to make good beer.

[J P]

HA HA!  Milo, i know exactly what you're talking about Wolfy!

You're better off with the droid and dry ingredients...   easy, convenient, less mucking around, and honestly better results.  I have YET to end up with a syrup-based brew that beats the dry ingredients... a lot of my syrup based brews have come out with a strange almost metallic tang that I still can't explain.

Dry ingredients into the droid is no-muss, no-fuss, easy cleanup, little waste, and adds flexibility with the 250g bags you can tweak the prints to your liking.

You'll love the droid.  The temp control, no messing around with SG measurements, etc.    It just makes it all so hassle free and predictable!

[Thagomizer]

According to Robert's lectures at Mr. Beer, we should not boil the HME's because it changes the chemistry of the hops, i.e., they have already been boiled enough.  In a different lecture, he suggests warming both the HME's and the LME's because it makes them easier to remove from the container and there is less waste.  I have silicone rubber squeegees that work very well with that problem - of course I sterilize them.  Therefore, I add the liquid HME's and LME's at room temperature.  And now, I stir.

Stirring.  I use a sterilized long handled plastic mashing paddle to stir the liquid HME's and LME's into the filtered water in the droid.  In less than 5 minutes, the paddle comes up with negligible extract on it.  I recommend plastic so you do not scratch the inner surface of the droid.

As Wolf has noted, the "sludge" at the bottom of the vessel gets eaten by the yeast.  I had the same experience the first time when I did not boil (nor stir).  What amazes me is that the powdered Elements and Enhancers from a BrewPrint dissolve without any mechanical stirring.  If you observe the wort after fermentation has started, you will see a roiling vigorous agitation of the wort.  Healthy yeast is voracious and will hunt down every molecule of sugar.

Two thirds of my brews are BrewPrints.  However, I enjoy an occasional departure from the elegant simplicity of the BrewPrint.  I even occasionally steep (not mash) whole grains for some recipes.

Happy brewing. 🙂

[Wolf]

Sediment continuing to settle (I used Nottingham Ale yeast). I know with the brewart dry ingredients I get back roughly the same volume of sediment as initial ingredients but unsure if I should expect this to be the case with LME? We are expecting a low of zero tonight, if the gravity looks ok is it time to leave it outside overnight then keg?

[Wolf]

Beer is kegged. Remaining slurry is a weird color (hop pellets playing their part?). Smelled vaguely of bread. Looks like it dissolved fully.