Dustin Frothman Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 (edited) I put down the Coopers Australian IPA in Droid #2 last night. The original Coopers DIY Beer recipe is here: https://www.diybeer.com/au/recipe/coopers-australian-ipa.html# And @Captain 3 Droids Brewart ingredients interpretation is as follows: E1 x 2, E5 x 1, X1 x 1, X2 x 2, Light Crystal Malt (125g), Y4, Eclipse 20g, Vic Secret 20g It all went to plan and I made the stovetop mini mash using a Bunnings bought paint strainer bag that had been boiled and sanitised. These work really well, especially if your brew in a bag equipment is made for larger batches. You can get these here: https://www.bunnings.com.au/uni-pro-4l-paint-strainer-bag-3-pack_p1661268 Now onto the point of this thread: I made a similar brew earlier this week as a take on a NEIPA and used Lallemand NEIPA yeast. I didn't rehydrate the yeast as per the packet directions as I'd read/watched a few things suggesting it wasn't necessary. Fermentation seemed to take a while to get going. Probably > 24 hours. On the Coopers Australian IPA I used a Brewart/Coopers yeast - Y4. Fermentation kicked off within 8 hours and I can already see fast and big bubbles through the sight glass. I know that the Brewart/Coopers yeast are top conditioning but I'm not sure about Lallemand and I will look into this further next time I use one. I'm not bothered if fermentation takes a while to get going as it's the end result that's important. However it is interesting to note the performance differences and is just another reason why the Brewart/Coopers ingredients are so good. I reckon I'll take the time to rehydrate other brands of yeast next time. Edited November 13, 2021 by Dustin Frothman 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted November 13, 2021 Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 9 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: On the Coopers Australian IPA I used a Brewart/Coopers yeast - Y4. Fermentation kicked off within 8 hours and I can already see fast and big bubbles through the sight glass. Coopers yeast are of top quality, S4 as follows:- BrewArts yeast supplies raps state on the back of order invoices:- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted November 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2021 3 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said: Coopers yeast are of top quality, S4 as follows:- BrewArts yeast supplies raps state on the back of order invoices:- Interesting. So do you think it is their "Commercial Strain" as mentioned in the Coopers Australian IPA DIY Beer recipe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted November 14, 2021 Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 1 minute ago, Dustin Frothman said: Interesting. So do you think it is their "Commercial Strain" as mentioned in the Coopers Australian IPA DIY Beer recipe? Yes, I’d say so. I think it will really enhance the malts and hops. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted November 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 1 minute ago, Captain 3 Droids said: Yes, I’d say so. I think it will really enhance the malts and hops. Excellent. It'll be really interesting to see how this one turns out. Funnily I've read that specs sheet on order invoices before but probably misread the other yeast's country of origin as Australia when it actually reads "Austria". 🤦♂️ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted November 14, 2021 Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 4 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: Excellent. It'll be really interesting to see how this one turns out. I think you’ll be happy, Y4 works well with the Coopers XPA, Ruby Porter and just a treat with the English Pub Draught which consistently has a 6 day EOF and doesn’t have a dry hop requirement. I’ve brewed it 21 times, a big favourite and I think the yeast is big part of the flavour profile. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted November 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2021 11 hours ago, Captain 3 Droids said: I think you’ll be happy, Y4 works well Sure does. 21 hours into the program and the Droid is spewing its guts out. It's worse than the cat. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 @Captain 3 Droids A question regarding yeast pitching rates: There's obviously calculators out there that will provide you with an accurate weight of yeast per volume of wort. I notice that the Brewart range is distributed in 11g packets and with some of those yeasts being manufactured in Austria it's likely Lallemand yeast repackaged. As the Droid is 10L in volume 11g of yeast is quite a bit. Do you think it's distributed in this weight for simplicity of use and 11g is more than is required and/or it helps account for cell viability if the packets are not handled or stored correctly? What's your thoughts and experience with over or under pitching of yeast (when using non Brewart ingredients) and is it really worthwhile to potentially save only a couple of dollars? Personally I can't be bothered as I just want to make good beer, but if there's potentially a detrimental effect on the finished brew then I'd rather get it right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 6 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: @Captain 3 Droids A question regarding yeast pitching rates: There's obviously calculators out there that will provide you with an accurate weight of yeast per volume of wort. I notice that the Brewart range is distributed in 11g packets and with some of those yeasts being manufactured in Austria it's likely Lallemand yeast repackaged. As the Droid is 10L in volume 11g of yeast is quite a bit. Do you think it's distributed in this weight for simplicity of use and 11g is more than is required and/or it helps account for cell viability if the packets are not handled or stored correctly? What's your thoughts and experience with over or under pitching of yeast (when using non Brewart ingredients) and is it really worthwhile to potentially save only a couple of dollars? Personally I can't be bothered as I just want to make good beer, but if there's potentially a detrimental effect on the finished brew then I'd rather get it right. It is interesting, what I have always found amazing is Coopers 7g yeast packages with the can brews for 23l! I’ve always felt this was under done and why fermentation could take some time to get going. I tried to question why in the US Coopers sold 15g equivalent. I feel the 11g for the 10l is just about perfect and in fact I would used that yeast when if doing another 23l brew. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said: It is interesting, what I have always found amazing is Coopers 7g yeast packages with the can brews for 23l! I’ve always felt this was under done and why fermentation could take some time to get going. I tried to question why in the US Coopers sold 15g equivalent. I feel the 11g for the 10l is just about perfect and in fact I would used that yeast when if doing another 23l brew. Now that you've posted that I do remember from my first try at home brewing that the cans ship with a 7g packet of yeast! I haven't taken the plastic lid off the can in the cupboard but will go and check now. I guess if you wanted to use the calculators then you need to know the gravity of the wort before you pitch which with the Brewart designed brewing method would increase the chance of an infection. I'm happy to continue using 11g of yeast Brewart/Coopers brand or others but @Wazza_wantsbeer's post about his FWK kit and splitting the yeast packet got me thinking about it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wazza_wantsbeer Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 15 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: @Captain 3 Droids A question regarding yeast pitching rates: There's obviously calculators out there that will provide you with an accurate weight of yeast per volume of wort. I notice that the Brewart range is distributed in 11g packets and with some of those yeasts being manufactured in Austria it's likely Lallemand yeast repackaged. As the Droid is 10L in volume 11g of yeast is quite a bit. Do you think it's distributed in this weight for simplicity of use and 11g is more than is required and/or it helps account for cell viability if the packets are not handled or stored correctly? What's your thoughts and experience with over or under pitching of yeast (when using non Brewart ingredients) and is it really worthwhile to potentially save only a couple of dollars? Personally I can't be bothered as I just want to make good beer, but if there's potentially a detrimental effect on the finished brew then I'd rather get it right. Great, great question @Dustin Frothman Given I just halved a Lellamand 11g packet for the 10l Droid for the All Inn NEIPA FWK, it would make sense that an 11g yeast BrewArt packet might be over pitching. From what I've read, under pitching, style dependent of course, often results in a better final product as under pitching puts stress on the yeast and results in more esters, and from what I've read, more esters equals more flavour. Wonder if that is worth trying with a recipe for the more adventurous multi-droid owners 😄 who can compare with previous favourite brews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wazza_wantsbeer Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: I'm happy to continue using 11g of yeast Brewart/Coopers brand or others but @Wazza_wantsbeer's post about his FWK kit and splitting the yeast packet got me thinking about it. I did mean to ask you @Dustin Frothman how did you treat your Lellamand yeast? Did you split or used the entire 11g? If split, how did you store the remaining portion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said: I did mean to ask you @Dustin Frothman how did you treat your Lellamand yeast? Did you split or used the entire 11g? If split, how did you store the remaining portion? I used the whole packet but yes I had the same experience as you with it taking quite a while to get going. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: I guess if you wanted to use the calculators then you need to know the gravity of the wort before you pitch which with the Brewart designed brewing method would increase the chance of an infection. When it comes to all grain brews I thing it’s important that certain factors/calculators etc be considered and used as there is a certain complexity with those brewing methods. However with BrewArt I’d say the results speak for themselves. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 1 minute ago, Captain 3 Droids said: However with BrewArt I’d say the results speak for themselves. Couldn't agree more. I have some Kveik yeast that I was given as a freebie on a Kegland order the other week. I might have to experiment and see if I can turn out a finished brew in 48 hours using it and a Brewprint. 🙃 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wazza_wantsbeer Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 On 14/11/2021 at 10:39 AM, Dustin Frothman said: Now onto the point of this thread: I made a similar brew earlier this week as a take on a NEIPA and used Lallemand NEIPA yeast. I didn't rehydrate the yeast as per the packet directions as I'd read/watched a few things suggesting it wasn't necessary. Fermentation seemed to take a while to get going. Probably > 24 hours. On the Coopers Australian IPA I used a Brewart/Coopers yeast - Y4. Fermentation kicked off within 8 hours and I can already see fast and big bubbles through the sight glass. @Dustin Frothman I see your reference to the Lellemand LelBrew New England yeast here. It wasn't in the topic where you commented on the actual brew as I was looking for it. That does make me feel more comfortable and also reading the Lellemand website. For me, if using Lallemand yeasts in future, and I most definitely will as I already purchased another packet for near future brews, I will keep pitching dry and use the half packet. It is recommended by Lallemand to use it this way. However, if this All Inn NEIPA turns out crap, then I'll definitely re-evaluate the above thoughts 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wazza_wantsbeer Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 10 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: I used the whole packet but yes I had the same experience as you with it taking quite a while to get going. Awesome, then we effectively have our own mini experiment going on. Two NEIPAs, yes with some major differences between the two worts, the exact same yeast and two different pitched weights. Me with the half packet, @Dustin Frothmanwith the full packet. I would imagine then, if your NEIPA brew was slow to take off pitching the whole packet, then mine will be even more so. Definitely cool and very interesting stuff, has brought me back to my science roots and I'm loving it. Thank you @Dustin Frothman and @Captain 3 Droids in particular along with all the others who contribute to this awesome forum. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Why not maximise your purchased yeast, use 1/2 but make a simple yeast starter. On brew day, using a sterilised jar, add a teaspoon of light dry malt or dextrose or sugar and mix with about 200ml of tepid water. Add 1/2 the yeast into the jar and put on the sterilised lid. Give it a good shake. Ever 10mins or so release any pressure, secure lid again and shake. Do this over about and hour. Fill droid with water and tip the starter in. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 (edited) 4 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said: Why not maximise your purchased yeast, use 1/2 but make a simple yeast starter. On brew day, using a sterilised jar, add a teaspoon of light dry malt or dextrose or sugar and mix with about 200ml of tepid water. Add 1/2 the yeast into the jar and put on the sterilised lid. Give it a good shake. Ever 10mins or so release any pressure, secure lid again and shake. Do this over about and hour. Fill droid with water and tip the starter in. Next thing you know we'll all have flasks and magnetic stirrers. Oh wait ... 😆 Edited December 3, 2021 by Dustin Frothman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 1 minute ago, Dustin Frothman said: Next think you know Well your looking going down the water path, salts, pH levels …😂😭😭, it’s all your fault. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Just now, Captain 3 Droids said: It’s all your fault. Just like at work!! 😭 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 Just now, Dustin Frothman said: Just like at work!! 😭 And at home 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin Frothman Posted December 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Captain 3 Droids said: And at home Yes. It's a good thing that the cat can't talk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain 3 Droids Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 4 minutes ago, Dustin Frothman said: Yes. It's a good thing that the cat can't talk. Mine does when I’ve had too many, hold on it died? Who am I talking too?🤔🤭😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Courtney Posted December 3, 2021 Report Share Posted December 3, 2021 10 hours ago, Wazza_wantsbeer said: Great, great question @Dustin Frothman Given I just halved a Lellamand 11g packet for the 10l Droid for the All Inn NEIPA FWK, it would make sense that an 11g yeast BrewArt packet might be over pitching. From what I've read, under pitching, style dependent of course, often results in a better final product as under pitching puts stress on the yeast and results in more esters, and from what I've read, more esters equals more flavour. Wonder if that is worth trying with a recipe for the more adventurous multi-droid owners 😄 who can compare with previous favourite brews. Very interesting 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now